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发表于 2019-11-14 08:55
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来自: 辽宁省锦州市 联通
本帖最后由 yuyixin 于 2019-11-14 08:56 编辑
.这位种植者成功的在3A区域,即冬季气温达到-40摄氏度的区域成功种植了标称为Zone4,5,6区才能种植的月季。多年中,他成功种植了HT,丰花,微月和其它耐寒的灌木,他从10月中旬开始到11月中旬进行月季的保护工作。
他的经验是:
• 不管是耐寒还是非耐寒的品种,秋季浇足水是最最注重的。
• 在3A区域,盆栽月季是无论如何也过不了冬的,需要把它们从盆里移出来改为地栽,时机是在地面没上冻之前一个月进行。
• 几场霜冻过后,月季叶片凋零,就要进行覆盖的工作,如果夜间温度稳定在摄氏-10以下,就要增加保护了。
• 我有一个成功的经验,peat moss是最佳的覆盖物(peat moss译过来是泥煤苔,查了一下资料,是泥炭的主要材料),它比稻草和树叶保温效果更好,它可以形成一个硬的外壳,不会被风刮走。peat moss还有第二个作用,春天的时候,可以直接把它混合到泥土里用来改良土壤,不像稻草和树叶之类的东西需要清理。
• 我会用peat moss把那些微月全部盖上,把其它不是特别耐寒的月季盖上1英尺厚(约30cm),月季可以事先修剪到2英尺高,免得被冬天的大风吹折。之后把堆积起的peat moss表面弄湿,让它形成一个硬壳,就不会被风刮散了。
• 所有在peat moss覆盖以下的枝条在整个冬天都会保持绿色。
• 春天时打开覆盖也是成功越冬的一个重要步骤,一旦夜间气温稳定在-10摄氏度以上了,就可以开始移除peat moss,一次移除一点儿,在3到4周的时间全部移开。这一工作一般从4月开始,但也视天气情况而定。我通常在4月底进行剪定的工作。
Winterizing Roses in the Extremes
Roses are tougher than you may think. I have had great success with over-wintering many roses that are rated Zone 4, 5 or 6 in my Zone 3A garden. In addition to Zone 3A, which basically means that it is common to dip to – 40ºC or F. Of course there are other factors that determine the Zone, which may include altitude (1084m or 3556 ft for Calgary) and typical weather systems. Calgary is located in the Chinook belt; therefore during the winter the huge temperature swings are very hard on the plant material.
For a number of years I have been growing Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, miniatures and of course hardy shrubs. Mid October to Mid November is the time to put the roses to bed for the winter.
• All (hardy and not-so-hardy) need to be watered in the fall. This is the most important do or die task.
• No rose will make it thru the winter (Zone 3A) in a pot. They have to be planted into the ground. I transplant all my container roses into the veggie garden for the winter. Typically the ground does not freeze here until Mid November, so about a month before ground freeze is a good guideline for transplanting roses.
• Once there have been several frosts and most of the foliage has dropped, it is time to mulch. If the night temperature become c**istently colder than -10ºC or 14ºF, it is the time to add protection.
• I have tried different mulches for winter protection and find peat moss the best. It seems more insulating than straw or leaves. It also forms a hard crust, so it doesn’t disappear over the winter and you don’t need to use the rose huts. Peat moss is also dual purpose because in the spring I spread out the peat moss in the flowerbeds and work it in which is a great amendment to the existing soil. With straw and leaves it can be quite a job for spring cleanup.
• Once the roses are ready for mulch, the peat moss is applied. I try to bury the minis completely and mound about a foot high on all the other not-so-hardy to the area roses. The canes can be cut down to about 2 feet so they do not whip in the wind and break. Wet the surface of the peat moss mound and it will form a hard crust and not blow away.
• The hardy roses do not get any special treatment other than a good fall watering.
• All canes below the peat moss level will remain green throughout the winter.
• Spring uncovering is one of the most important steps of successful over-wintering the roses that are pushing the zone. Once the night low temperatures start to c**istently become warmer than -10ºC or 14ºF, it’s time to start removing the peat moss. Do this a little at a time, so it will be 3 to 4 weeks to have the mulch removed. Peat moss heats up a lot with the daytime heating and you don’t want the rose to start to bud out too much, too soon. By removing the mulch in stages, it will send out new shoots that are able to withstand those spring frosts in May. The uncovering typically begins in early April, but it depends on the weather. I usually trim off the winter kill or shape the roses at the end of April.
This is what I do, hope it helps |
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